Pat Dennis, who lives in Coolnacoppoge clachan today, has combined the material from the Antrim Estate papers, which Ian Montgomery used in his lecture to the Society on 9th February 2006, with other sources to chart the changes in Coolnagoppoge from the late eighteenth century to the early twentieth century. These other sources include – the Agricultural Census of 1803, the Ordnance Survey Memoirs for the 1830s, the 1837 Tithe Applotment Book, the Griffith’s Printed Valuation of circa 1860 and its subsequent revisions, the 1901 Census Enumerators’ Returns and, most importantly, her detailed, local knowledge.
The thumbnails at the bottom of the page are the estate maps of John O’Hara produced in 1782(D/2977/35/6) and a map produced in 1849 (D/2977/36/20/6). These maps are reproduced here with the permission of the Public Record Office of Northern Ireland.
Introduction
Coolnagoppoge is a clachan in the lower reaches of the townland of the same name. The clachan is settled on a windswept scarp at a height of about 500ft. Visible below in a northwest direction at a distance of five miles is the town of Ballycastle, and behind the clachan towards the east, the land slopes gently towards the mountain of Carnanmore, and then rises steeply to a height of 1250ft.
In the Ordnance Survey Memoir of 1831 Lieutenant T. C. Robe remarked that while there was no town in the parish of Culfeightrin, and no village deserving of the name, Coolnagoppoge was the largest group of cabins. Census figures for 1841 list the number of houses as 30 with a population of 144 people.
See map number 1, at the bottom of the page, which shows the layout of the clachan in 1849.
By 1871 the numbers of houses had decreased to 16 with a population of 74 people – almost halved in 30 years. There may be a number of varied reasons for the decline in the population – famine, ill health etc. but also it could have been due to the policy of the landlord – The Earl of Antrim.
A description of the lower class houses, typical of Coolnagoppoge, is given in 1835 by Lt R K Dawson:
…the houses are all one storey, thatched and built of stone – The houses in the remote and mountainous districts are not nearly so clean and comfortable and seldom consist of more than one apartment. Meal and potatoes with a little fish form the only articles of food. In the mountainous districts, very little meal is used. Tea is becoming an indispensable article, particularly with the older persons. Turf, which is very abundant, is the only fuel.
Eighteenth Century
John O’Hara’s map of 1782 is the earliest to show the townland of Coolnagoppoge. See map number 2 at the bottom of the page. It shows that the area was divided into arable, pasture and mountain. It also depicts the clachan in position as we know it today but there is little detail on the settlement.
The earliest lease that can be traced is dated 5th April 1710 and is as follows:
Rt. Hon. Randal, Earl of Antrim to John McDonnell Esq., Coolnagoppoge, Co Antrim. Counterpart lease for 31 years of one quarterland of Coolnagoppoge, Co Antrim. Rent £7. Receiver’s Fees 6d per pound. Office Fees 3d. Heriot of best living beast or 40/- in lieu. Courts Leet and Baron. Covenant to grind corn. 2 acres to be enclosed yearly for 10 years and planted with quick sets or build a double stone ditch 4 feet in height and kept in good repair or forfeit lease. 40 trees to be planted yearly for 10 years or pay 4d for every tree not planted.
This John McDonnell, who lived at Ballinagard in the parish of Culfeightrin, was a relative of the Antrim family.
On 1st June 1781 the townland was leased by a group of farmers, and from this time on, rents were paid straight to the McDonnell Estate. The quarterland of Coolnagoppoge – quarterland, from the Scottish Gallic “Ceathramh”, was a Scottish land measurement equivalent to c. 13.26 hectares – was leased in four parts to:
| No. 1 | No. 2 | No. 3 | No. 4 |
| Archibald Black | William O’Shale | Robert Dunkin | Alex McDonnell |
| Denis O’Hara | Dunkin Darragh | John Dunkin | J McIldowney |
| John Robeson | Charles Dunkin | Hugh Duncan | |
| John Dunkin Jr |
Nineteenth Century
The Agricultural Census of 1803 lists 21 people working on the land in “Coulnagoppog”:
| Alexander Black | Thomas McGlarry |
| Archibald Black | James McHendry |
| James Black | Patrick McLaughlin |
| James Clark | Daniel McLean |
| Nancy Connel | John O’Mulhall |
| L. Darragh | Cornelius O’Sheals |
| James Dunkin | John Robinson |
| James Dunkin | Denis Scally |
| John Dunkin | Patrick Scally |
| Patrick Harran | James Sheals |
| John McCarry |
At this time there must have been a minimum of 15 houses in the clachan.
In 1812, O’Hara – surveyor for McDonnell of Antrim – reported:
A part of this quarterland had been reclaimed from rough state of mountain to pasture and tillage. This had been acquired without stock manure and under a course of incessant cropping. Limestone shows itself everywhere and is a certain indication of fertility even where the soil is not of great depth. A large part of the estate is good brown mountain and turf and further improvement cannot be expected. This land lays high and bleak and affords merely a range of young cattle during the summer months.
In 1817, the townland was leased to collective groups:
A Arch. McCurdy and Partners
B John McCambridge and Partners
C John Dunkin and Partners
D James Dunkan and Partners
In 1821 the leases are more specific, giving some information on the tenants of Coolnagoppoge and the terms and conditions under which they rented e.g. Lease for 21 years and one life of 29A 2R 3P plantation measures, also portion of mountain grazing……… Corn to be ground at Ballypatrick Mill.
The tenant farmers in 1820/21 are listed as follows:
| John McCambridge | Duncan O’Scally |
| Archibald McCambridge | Brigid O’Connell |
| Bryan McNeill | Alec Black |
| James McMullan | Patrick McLaughlin |
| James Clark | James McKarry |
| Patrick McLaughlin Jr | James O’Sheal Jr |
| John McGlarry |
In 1822 seven more tenants were added:
| James McDonnell | John Murray |
| Patrick Connell | Eneas McMullan |
| Robt. O’Scally | James Dunkin |
| Daniel McNeill |
The size of the holdings is indicated in the leases. The average lease was for 8 acres, or less, among those were Archibald Black, Dennis Black, Archibald McLaughlin, James O’Sheal and James McKay. This group shared 29 acres. These leases are described as being one fourth part of field numbers 17,18,19,20, 12, 22, 26” – patches of land scattered all over the townland.
The leases were granted for a period of “21 years and one life”, so between 1821 and 1841, each tenant farmer held the same ground. It is interesting to note that despite the limitation of “one life”, the heirs of the original lease holder were respected and annual rent was paid and accepted from them.
During this period some names disappeared e.g.
John Murray – Eneas McMullan took over from him in 1823.
John McCambridge whose successor was Daniel McNeill Jr in 1827
Patrick McLaughlin gave way to Patrick Butler in 1828
James McDonnell gave way to Connelly and Partners in 1831
It is remarkable that no new name appeared in the rent books, the successors to the disappearing names were from families already established in Coolnagoppoge. Could they have been related by marriage or were they evicted? More research needed.
In 1837 the Tithe List for Coolnagoppoge gives the inhabitants as:
| James Black | John McGlarry | Brigid McNeill |
| Neal Connolly | James Shields | Danl. McNeill Jr |
| Patrick Butler | Alex Black | Eneas McMullan |
| Duncan Scally | James McLarry | James Duncan |
| Danl. Scally | Archie McLaughlin | Joseph McDonnell |
| James McMullan | John Duncan |
The paying of the rent must have been an arduous task; the tenants were more often in arrears. In 1834 James Clarke’s rent for 8A 1R 7P was £3.10.111/2 – in 1835 he was in arrears for the amount of £7.1.11 (two years rent), as were almost all of the other tenants.
A combination of factors – poor harvests, poor ground, famine, the inefficiencies of the Rundale farming practices, scattered holdings etc would combine to be responsible for the difficult and ineffectual farming.
At this time the main crops grown on the land would have been oats, corn and some flax – the evidence of dubs just outside the clachan would indicate this – and of course the ubiquitous potato.
The limited arable ground held by at least 20 farmers in scattered holdings would make subsistence almost impossible. Even if the livestock – cows, bulls, calves, pigs and perhaps a few sheep – were taken to the mountain for the summer, the arable ground was under extreme pressure. To add to the problems the potato harvest could be difficult and failed completely during the great famine.
The failure to pay the rent on a regular basis gave the Earl of Antrim the opportunity to solve the problem of the overcrowding in the clachan and the impossible demands on the less than fertile land. Eviction orders on every tenant farmer were issued in 1847 and instructions to return their lands and dwellings to the landlord.
For example:
Decree for the Non Payment of Rent
Plaintiffs
James McMullan, Danl. McCormick, Elizabeth Scally, Daniel McDaniel, Neal McMullan
Sum now owed 21pounds and 21/2 pence
Further ordered to pay £1.14.6 Costs
Or take in execution the Goods of the Defendant
Bailiffs
William McCormick, James Carson, Henry Boyle, Edward Robinson, John Hall.
Eviction was not necessarily in the landlord’s interest, but the decrees gave the landlord an opportunity to reorganise and redivide the whole of the lands in Coolnagoppoge ….. in order to make small and compact farms. In this way the landlord must have expected more efficient farming practices and therefore a better opportunity to procure rental income. It is a reflection on the landlord at this stage that the estate did not contribute anything to encourage the efficient tillage, drainage, husbandry or use of the land.
Below is an example of an agreement that each tenant was asked to sign.
Dated this day of November 1847
Surrender of Premises in Coolnagoppog
Daniel Scally, Eneas McMullan, John Duncan and Mary McNeile to Earl of Antrim.
Articles of Agreement entered into between Right Honourable Hugh Seymour, Earl of Antrim of the one part, and Daniel Scally, Eneas McMullan, John Duncan and Mary McNeile of the other part –
Whereas the said Daniel Scally, Eneas McMullan, John Duncan and Mary McNeile held a certain farm of land in Coolnagoppog in the county of Antrim, including a portion of mountain thereto belonging by virtue of a lease under the said Earl of Antrim at the yearly rent of thirty three pounds twelve shillings and five pence sterling( including receivers fees and rent charges) And that the sum of forty one pounds fifteen shillings and ten pence sterling became due and owing upon paid lease for said farm by said Daniel Scally, Eneas McMullan, John Duncan and Mary McNeile to the said Earl at May last.
And whereas the said Earl of Antrim brought an ejectment for the non payment of rent due to him as aforesaid, and obtained a decree for the recovery of the possessions of said premises in October last past.
Now this agreement witnesseth that for and in consideration of the said Earl of Antrim not dispossessing the said Daniel Scally, Eneas McMullan, John Duncan and Mary McNeile out of their houses on said premises under said ejectment decree and also in consideration of the said Earl redividing the whole of the lands in Coolnagoppog in said County in order to make square and compact farms and granting to the said Daniel Scally, Eneas McMullan, John Duncan and Mary McNeile, respecting new and separate leases of farms in the new divisions of said lands for the same term which remains unexpired of the former lease as aforesaid agreeable to their former respective interests at or about the same yearly rate of valuation, by way of rent, that the said Daniel Scally, Eneas McMullan, John Duncan and Mary McNeile hereby agree to surrender all their right, title or interest in and to the same lease which they formally held as aforesaid to the said Earl of Antrim. And hereby agree to sign any further deed or re-lease for the more effectual re-leasing and surrendering to the said Earl of Antrim their respective titles or interests in and to the said premises as the Council of the said Earl may deem necessary.
Provided however and it is expressly agreed that in the event of the said Daniel Scally, Eneas McMullan, John Duncan and Mary McNeile not paying up the rent due to the said Earl as aforesaid amounting to forty one pounds fifteen shillings and ten pence sterling together with the half years rent due on the first day of November. Instant on or before the first day of February next ensuing the date hereof to the said Earl or his agent, that then the said Daniel Scally, Eneas McMullan, John Duncan and Mary McNeile are only to be tenants at will for their new farms and to fit no new lease, but the surrender of their former tenure or lease as aforesaid to remain good and valid in Law notwithstanding.
Signed sealed and delivered this 29th day of November 1847.
Witness for the Earl of Antrim John Jas Burrett.
At this time there was no alternative for the tenant farmers but to reach an agreement with the landlord. In 1849 the landlord McDonnell, had a map drawn up showing the redistribution of land. A copy of the map can be seen at the bottom of the page – map number 3.
The tenants as indicated on this map held “square and compact farms” or almost – each farmer had a strip of ground below (to west of) the clachan – still known as the “dales” (Rundale) – as well as reorganised fields on the upper (east) side and mountain grazing. Each holding was designated a colour on the map drawn by the agent.
Map number 4, at the bottom of the page shows the “dales” in more detail and map number 5 shows the fields that were recovered from the mountain.
Each tenant – in groups of 4 or 5 farmers – had to sign the agreement shown above or get out. Names leaving Coolnagoppoge at this time include James Clark, Alec Black, Dennis Black, James McKarry, Archibald McLaughlin and James McDonnell. Further research is needed to ascertain if these people were evicted.
The population figures for the period 1841 – 1871 show a dramatic decline.
| Year | Population | Houses |
| 1841 | 144 | 30 |
| 1851 | 140 | 28 |
| 1861 | 90 | 19 |
| 1871 | 74 | 16 |
Without legal rights to the land, the landlord would have been able to remove tenants quite easily. By reducing the number of tenants the future would be more sustainable.
The “tenants at will” with the reallocated ground were:
John McGlarry, Patrick Scally, John McMullan, John Kinney, James McMullan, James Sheals, John McNeill, Neal Connolly, Hugh McMullan, John Duncan and Elizabeth Butler.
In 1859 the Griffith Valuation lists 12 tenants of the Earl of Antrim holding house, offices and land, with Thomas McMullan employed as a herd by James Sheals and Partners – probably the occupant of the herds house now standing as a wall-stead in Crockaboley just inside the mountain gate in Coolnagoppoge townland. Click here for a copy of the page from the Griffith’s Valuation of circa 1860 showing the names, etc. of these tenants.
A rent book circa 1863 – 1879 includes the same families and shows an interesting reduction in rent – probably due to Land Acts – and a variation on the acreage of ground held.
| Folio | No. | Tenants | Tenure | Quantities | Rent |
| 271 | 1 | James McMullan | W | 44.01.16 | £13.9.8 |
| 271 | 1a | John McMullan (previously Mary) | £13.9.8 | ||
| 271 | 2 | Hugh Duncan (previously J. McKinney) | JA (prev. L) | 31.03.06 | £19 (previously £23) |
| 272 | 3 | John McNeill | JA (prev. W) | 13.03.00 | £11.5.0 (previously £12.16.0) |
| 272 | 4 | Elizabeth Butler | W | 10.00.04 | £9.5.10 |
| 273 | 5 | Mary McGlarry | JA (prev. W) | 16.02.34 | £14.3.0 (previously £15.6.0) |
| 273 | 6 | Hugh McMullan | JA (prev. W) | 38.03.13 | £30.0.0 (previously £31.15.0) |
| 274 | 7 | John Shiells | W | 32.03.08 | £20.6.2 |
| 274 | 8 | Patrick Scally | W | 10.01.22 | £8.17.2 |
| 275 | 9 | Ann Scally (previously James) | W | house | £0.5.0 |
| 275 | 10 | Neil Connelly | JA (prev. W) | 06.02.09 | £4.10.0 (previously £4.18.0 |
| 276 | 11 | Sarah Sheills | W | house | £0.5.0 |
| 276 | 12 | Wm Clark (struck out) | W | house | £0.1.0 |
| Mountain divided into sums | 522.00.20 | ||||
| Cut over bog | 12.01.18 | ||||
| Roads, etc. | 05.02.10 |
The landlord, with the “tenants at will” standing, had good leverage with his tenants e.g. an Order was issued to Hugh McMullan 1st April 1864 – Farm to be revalued, all old houses to be thrown down and lease of farm granted for 31 years, provided a good house is built in a suitable position.
The Valuation Map of 1860 (click here to see a copy of it) which accompanied the printed Griffiths Valuation of Ireland is disappointing because it gives no indication of tenancy, either in plots of land or houses. The numbers and letters are impossible to read. However, comparing it to the 1849 Estate map which shows consolidation of tenants’ holdings, the Valuation map echoes the divisions of land but does not show the divisions or field boundaries of the “dales”. Further research is needed.
The printed Griffith Valuation lists with revisions from 1859 – 1908 gives some suggestion on the continuity of family lines.
| No. | Griffith 1859 | 1864 – 1877 | 1877 – 1891 | 1890 – 1908 |
| 1 | Eaneas Clarke | Eaneas Clarke –John McNeale | John McNeale – Daniel McNeale | Hugh Duncan |
| 2 | Neal Connolly | Neal Connolly | Neal Connolly – Mgt Connolly | Mgt Connolly |
| 3 | Patrick Butler | Patk Butler – Eliz Butler | Eliz Butler | John Butler |
| 4 | Patrick Scally | Patrick Scally | Patk Scally (erased?) | Mary McMullan Jr |
| 5 | John McLarry | John McLarry – Mary McLarry | Mary McLarry | James McMullan |
| 6 | James McMullan | J McMullan – Jn McMullan Jr | Jn McMullan – James McMullan | Annie Scally |
| 7 | James Shiel | James Shiel – John Shiel | John Shiel | John Butler |
| 8 | John McCambridge | John McCambridge – John Kinney | John Kinney – Hugh Duncan | Hugh Duncan |
| 9 | John McMullan | Jn McMullan – Mary McMullan Sr | Mary McMullan Sr – John McMullan | Mary Shiel |
| 10 | Donald Scally | Don Scally – Patk Scally | Patk Scally – Dorothy Scally – John McMullan | John McMullan |
| 11 | Eaneas McMullan | Owen McMullan – John McMullan – Hugh McMullan | Hugh McMullan | John McMullan |
| 12 | John Duncan | John Duncan – Earl of Antrim – Hugh McMullan | Hugh McMullan | Hugh McMullan |
| John McKay (house owned by James Shiel) | John McKay | John McKay (erased) |
Twentieth Century
The Census Enumerators’ Returns for 1901 are almost within the living memory of the inhabitants of Coolnagoppoge. Click here for a copy of these returns and read the notes below when going through the returns.
Notes on 1901 Census Enumerators’ Returns
1. The family of McLaughlin lived just outside the townland boundary of Coolnagoppoge, so will be disregarded.
2. John and Mary Ann Butler did not have any children and in 1938 their farm was bought by Dan McMullan, their nephew and son of John and Mary McMullan.
3. Margaret and Mary Anne Connolly – family died out – wall stead – farm bought by James McMullan in 1940.
4. Clarke family – John McNeil took over farm 1864 – 1877, and the family moved to Ballycastle. Farm bought by Hugh Duncan 1890 – 1908.
5. Anne Scally – had a shop – wall stead now. Farm bought by John McMullan 1877 – 1891.
6. M McMullan with Francis Donaghy and Lizzie Grant. Farm bought by Hugh Duncan 1909 – 1930. Wall stead removed 1960’s.
7. Mary Shields – wall stead removed and new house built 2005.
8. John and Mary McMullan – farm now owned by James Black Carvadoon, and house owned by McManus family, Belfast.
9. Hugh and Sarah Duncan – Farm bought by Dan McKay in 1958 – house demolished 2005.
10. Mary McMullan, Hugh McMullan – house and farm now owned by John Alphonsus Kane.
11. James, Denis McMullan – farm owned by James McNeill and house owned by Dowdall family, Belfast.
Conclusion
The study of Coolnagoppoge 1901 – 2006 is ongoing. Further research is needed to confirm title on various houses and wallsteads. Research is also ongoing on the history of the transfer of lands etc. It is interesting to note that the field boundaries, with a few exceptions, are similar to the land consolidation of 1849. Farming practices in their historical context, such as booleying and flax growing, will be included.