Jimmy Irvine : Volume 7 (1979)
The latest in an occasional series revisiting interesting articles published in previous editions of The Glynns, with added illustrations and hyperlinks.
Preface
My wife and I live in an old house about a mile north of Carnlough called Lemnalary. Immediately behind it stand the ruins of an older house. One of these —we still don’t know which — is mentioned by Richard Dobbs in his account of the Antrim Coast written in 1683. He describes it as being “a slate house built by the Earl of Antrim’s receiver which may be seen near 20 miles at sea.” In trying to discover to which of the two houses Dobbs was referring, I consulted a document in the Public Record Office of Northern Ireland which was claimed to be either the original of Dobbs’ account, or preparatory notes for it. As this document made no mention of the Earl of Antrim’s receiver in this particular connection, I made a detailed study of it. This revealed such differences between it and the already printed version as to suggest the following publication.
Acknowledgment
I wish to thank The Board of Trinity College, Dublin for permission to reproduce in facsimile one of Richard Dobbs’ letters as well as an extract from the transcript of his Description of County Antrim: also the Bodelian Library Oxford for permission to print Molyneux’ questionaire: and also the Deputy Keeper of the Records of Northern Ireland for permission to print in full Dobbs’ Preparatory Notes for his Description, as well as a facsimile extract from them. Finally, I would like to thank the Deputy Keeper and Miss Valerie Adams, also of the Public Record Office of Northern Ireland, for invaluable assistance in deciphering the Notes.
Introduction
In 1683 William Molyneux of Dublin, philosopher and mathematician, undertook to assist Moses Pitt of London, publisher and bookseller, to bring out a new atlas of Ireland.
This was to be part of ‘The English Atlas’, modelled on Blaeu’s ‘Atlas Major’, of which Pitt had already published four volumes. For the collection of accurate local detail Molyneux drew up a questionaire which he sent to “persons of education and intelligence throughout the country.”* The resultant returns, it was hoped, would provide sufficient data to render the new atlas superior to anything hitherto produced. It was in response to this appeal that Richard Dobbs of Carrickfergus wrote his renowned, and now invaluable, description of the County of Antrim.
Due however to the financial difficulties of its promoter, the atlas was never published. As a result, Dobbs’ description did not see the light of day till almost two hundred years later. Then, in 1873, it appeared as an appendix to the Rev. George Hill’s ‘History of the Macdonnells of Antrim’. With the recent reprints of this work, Dobbs’ account takes on fresh interest, especially when it is realised that two authentic variants to this published version are now identifiable.
Their existence can readily be explained. The first arises from a number of discrepancies between the original copy housed in the Library of Trinity College, Dublin, and the version as printed in ‘The Macdonnells’. The second springs from papers amongst the Dobbs Documents now held in the Public Record Office of Northern Ireland.
As regards the first: it is evident from George Benn’s letter, which Hill quoted by way of introduction to his appendix, that what is now held in Dublin is a copy of, and not the original dispatches sent by Dobbs to Molyneux. In fact the account is but one of a number of descriptions sent from various parts of Ireland in response to Molyneux’ questionaire. These were later copied into two large leather-bound volumes in the first of which Dobbs’ account runs from page 177 to 211*. These copies were written in a bold copperplate hand throughout, clearly the work of an experienced and careful clerk. As his business was to transcribe, he made no attempt to re-arrange the dispatches and their covering letters in chronological order. Thus we are left with what is probably a faithful copy of the originals whose sequence has unfortunately been lost. This last is immediately evident to the casual reader of the appendix where the sequence is exactly as in the Trinity Copy. What happened to the actual dispatches is unknown.
From this Trinity Copy a transcription was made for the use of Hill’s printers, Messrs. Archer and Sons of 10 Wellington Place, Belfast. It is not clear who made the transcription, though from his letter it might well have been Benn himself. However, there are a number of discrepancies between the two. Though none of these is individually of great consequence, the differences collectively do merit consideration. They are of two kinds: some are actual errors, and some are simple omissions. For the convenience of readers they are appended here as Schedule B, together with their ‘Macdonnell’ page and linear references.
The second, and by far the more interesting variant to the printed version, is that found amongst the Dobbs Documents in the Public Record Office in Belfast. These documents were lodged by the late Major A. E. Dobbs as long ago as 1925, and the particular paper in question was duly calendared under the title, “A MS which seems to be the original of, or material for, the Survey of Carrickfergus and Antrim: March 27th-3rd May, 1683 by Richard Dobbs of Castle Dobbs, printed in Appendices to Hill’s Macdonnells of Antrim, pp 377-389.” ** Thus there is no claim now to having discovered something new. But when these Notes are closely studied and compared with the already printed version their value becomes apparent.
To start with, from internal evidence it is clear they were written by Richard Dobbs himself, in his own hand. Though nowhere signed as such — why should they be, seeing they were for his own personal use? — they surely are the rough preparatory notes from which he wrote his fair copies for dispatch to Molyneux.
* Other comparable descriptions within these volumes include those of West Meath by Sir Henry Pyerce, West Connaught by O’Flaherty, Ardes Barony in the County of Down by William Hamilton as well as many lessers accounts, all of similar date.
** P.R.O.N.I. D 162/6
Their penmanship and that of signed letters by Dobbs leaves little room for doubt – see facsimile extracts. And that he evidently had such notes is substantiated by his remarking, “If I be not mistaken (for I have not my last notes about me) I gave some account of Kilroot house.” (‘Macdonnells’, p. 378).
Naturally enough Dobbs commenced his account with a description of his own town, the place he knew best. His notes, written on large unfolded sheets of foolscap, are almost as lengthy as the printed version itself. He dispatched it to Molyneux with a covering letter dated 27th March, 1683, from which it is evident that he was very diffident about writing at all. He was very aware that there were others with “more leisure and ability to give . . . satisfaction as to this town” and furthermore, he was not then in possession of a copy of Molyneux’s questionaire. However, when no one from the town came forward in response to Molyneux’s appeal, Dobbs himself, as mayor took up the challenge, almost certainly more from a sense of civic duty than from any real inclination.
His account of Carrickfergus so pleased Molyneux that he at once requested Dobbs to deal similarly with the whole county. Greatly encouraged, Dobbs proceeded to describe first the roads leading out of Carrickfergus, and those running throughout the whole county. His notes for these road sections were written on folded sheets of foolscap, such as would slip easily into the pocket.
Next he wrote his description of the County Antrim coast. By now his hand was well in, and he was thoroughly enjoying his self imposed task. Still on the same folded foolscap, but the contents more in the form of a catalogue than a composition, he headed this section as a “Briefe of ye Sea Coastes of the County of Antrym to Collrayne.” The description is so accurate as regards both detail and sequence as to suggest that Dobbs made a special boat trip for the purpose of recording his observations. In a marginal note he actually stated, that he had “been at the place [the Maidens] within these five days” (‘Macdonnells’, p.380). As he gained confidence his notes became briefer and briefer, until those on the final leg between Red Bay and Ballycastle were little more than a bare list of items to be mentioned. However, before he had written up this last part of the account, opportunity for dispatch to Dublin occurred, so that the Red Bay to Ballycastle section was held over.
Doubtless it too would have been written up in due course, as also the leg from Ballycastle to Coleraine, had not news of Pitt’s decision to abandon the project put an end to all further progress. Thus we have the Notes for the Red Bay to Ballycastle section, but they were never written up or dispatched and so never published. Because of their value as original source material, Dobbs’ entire Notes are here published for the first time. Their comparison with the printed version is in itself a worthwhile exercise for anyone interested in the County of Antrim.
There remains one further issue arising out of this study, namely the identity of the author. There were two Richard Dobbs alive at the time the account was written, father and son, one born in 1638 and the other in 1660. Because the writer refers to the founder of the Irish branch of the family as his great grandfather (‘Macdonnells’, p. 378), it has been assumed by some local historians, including Samuel McSkimin, that he was Richard Dobbs junior.*If this were so, he could only have been twenty two or three at the time of writing and when he became mayor of Carrickfergus. But he could have scarcely have written of ‘people playing the clothes off their backs at five cards’ as I received it from old people 30 years since.” (‘Macdonnells’, p. 377).**
* The first member of the family in these parts was John Dobbs who died in 1622. He had accompanied Sir Henry Dockwra to Ireland in 1596. and it was he who established his residence at Castle Dobbs. He was suceeded by his son Hercules (1614-1638), who was in tun, succeeded by his son, Richard (1638 1701). This Richard was succeeded by his son, also Richard (1660-1711), who was father of Arthur Dobbs (1689-1765), the Surveyor General of Ireland and later Governor of North Carolina.
** Similar evidence can be found on
‘Macdonnells’, pp 379, 389 and elsewhere.
In view of this unambiguous reference to the writer being over the age of thirty, and to the whole account appearing to be the work of a mature and experienced observer, it must be concluded that the writer should have referred to the founder of the Irish Dobbs as his grandfather, and that he himself was in fact Richard Dobbs senior, born in 1638
The Notes:“A MS which seems to be the original of, or material for, the Survey of Carrickfergus and Antrim, March 27th — 3rd May, 1683 by Richard Dobbs of Castle Dobbs, printed in Appendices to Hill’s Macdonnells of Antrim. pp 377-389″
Carrickfergus is so called from King Fergus either because he built the Castle, or as some say was drowned or cast away here, for the Castle stands upon a rock and Carrick being Irish for a rock, Carrickfergus is Fergus’s rock.
The Castle ward is encompassed with a double wall to the front with two large courts and three strong gates ere you come into the outer court, at the middle gate is a drawbridge. This was formerly kept by a constable and warders. The Governor was then the constable, but now is guarded by a Company of Foot of the Army to which at this present the Right Honble the Earl of Longford is Captain. The Mayor of the town upon Michaelmas day is sworn before the constable of the castle and within the vicinity of the castle. In this castle is secured always a magazine of ammunition and arms, and here are several good guns, both brass and iron. It stands on the north side of the Bay. The Bay begins near Copeland Isles which lie east south east from Carrickfergus, and so runs up to Belfast that is placed at the head of the Bay or Lough, and is distant from Copeland Isles about six leagues. The Lough is about five miles over. At the entrance some places 12, 14 and 15 fathoms and opposite to the town the deepest from 5 and six fathoms to 8, 9 and 10 fathoms at full sea. In other places not above 3 by reason of some banks.
There is about a league within the Bay, on the north side the Lough, a long ridge or point of rocks which runs into the Bay near a quarter of a mile, in old times called Spear Point because broader towards the land and sharper into the sea or bay, but now the fishers commonly call it the Cloghan. (Marginal Note — What vessel soever comes into the Lough and has sight of the Bishop’s House after named is free of this point.) Opposite to the North the Copeland Isles is a great hill called the Black Head whereon a lighthouse is erected wherein great candles are kept in winter time to give notice to seamen passing this way, or coming into the Bay.
To the east of Carrickfergus about a mile stands Kilroot, now the mansion house of the Lord Bishop of Down and Connor not far from the sea, though no bishop has lived there since Bishop Echlyn, who was (as I take it) about the latter end of King James.
South east from Carrickfergus on the County of Down sides, is the town of Bangor. Anciently it belonged to the O’Neiles as all the Clanaboys did, but in King James’ time it was given to Sir James Hamilton, afterwards Lord Viscount Clanaboys, the father of Henry Earl of Clanbrazill whose son, likewise Henry, dying about seven years since without issue, the Honorable fell, and the estate stands divided amongst several of his nearest relations at their own purchase. This Bangor was once a monastry, and possessed by a certain number of monks who, it is said, were all put to death by the highlanders coming thither out of the highlands of Scotland. Some ruins of the monastry appear to this day.
In the castle of Carrickfergus is one of the finest arches that ever I see being 48 feet square and [blank in the text] feet high. There is likewise a draw well in the low vault of the Castle wrought through the rock of a considerable depth. The sea surrounds the Castle near three parts of four and might easily be brought quite round. The port or key cost £1,400. A vessel of 100 tons has layn in it.
Here is one of the stateliest houses in the kingdom belonging to the Earl of Donegall. It is to the front like a lanthorn. It stands where formerly the Abbey of Joymount stood, and was built by Sir Arthur Chichester that was many years Lord Deputy of Ireland who sometimes lived here, and was one of the aldermen of the town. Where this house stands and about the circuit of two acres of ground belonging to it is exempt from arrests of the Town Sergeants, being esteemed to be in the County of Antrim. So likewise is the King’s Castle and that space of ground where the gaol of the County of Antrim stands. (Marginal Note — I have heard the late Earl of Donegall, great uncle to the present Earl, say he could never find any account what this house cost, though he had then by him several weekly accounts of the charge of old Sir Arthur’s houskeeping, but I had from a relation of my own that lived here soon after it was built who said it cost about £20,000.)
There was anciently another abbey west of this town and about a quarter of a mile distant called the Abbey of Woodburn, a river of that name dividing the said abbey from the town. The land all about this town is very good, but for the most part a strong clay [MS torn here] lies under the hills. In the Bay are great store of scallops, and some oysters very large, and in season at 7 or 8 fathom water all the year. Here is likewise store of freestone and limestone, all the limestone white and very good clay or marl for brick or tile. There are likewise in several places signs of coal, and some trials have been made to find them, but to no effect. The firing here is English and Scotch sea coal with the abler sort of people and some turf, the ordinary sort use all turf, of which there are as good here as are in the kingdom and in great plenty.
In the late rebellion there was not one foot of land in this town or liberties of the same forfeited, nor is there at this time one papist known living within the walls, and only some few ordinary Irish papists and one English in the liberties. The Dean of Connor is parson of this town and resides here, now Tho. Warde. The greatest number of inhabitants are presbyterians but the most considerable and [MS torn here] able are of the Church of England.
The Charter gives us a mayor, recorder, two sheriffs, 16 aldermen and a common council of 24. He that was mayor last year is mayor of the staple the year ensuing, and the last sheriffs are always next year coroners. Here are 4 quarter sessions, and no other justice of peace to be or meddle here but the mayor and recorder. The town clerk by the Charter is clerk of the crown and peace, and the mayor first in commission for the assizes, and the governor of Carrickfergus next. At this present the Right Honorable Francis Earl of Longford is governor and one of the aldermen or the town, as likewise the Earl of Donegall, the Earl of Mount Alexander and William Hill of Hillsborough Esqr. who was mayor ann. [blank in text] and his grandfather Sir Moses Hill was mayor of this town ann. [blank in text], his father Arthur Hill and brother Moses were aldermen.
Anno Domini [16]81 in June a great number of huge porpoises came into this Lough whereof some were taken 21 feet long.
Some Irish hereabouts say there is an Irish prophecy that the Castle of Carrickfergus shall appear like the head of a nail in the sea, understanding or least supposing thereby that the town should be overflowed by the sea. The truth is the sea has gained several yards about it within these 25 or 30 years. The ground all hereabouts is very good for wheat and barley, but the people being most Scotch, oats are more used. I have seen cherries ripe here in May in my Lord Donegall’s orchard. I have likewise seen very good musk-melons in his garden when he lived here about 1658 and ’59.
In the late rebellion of Ireland which began in 1641 the Irish never made any attempt upon this town.
In 1666 the garrison of foot here mutinied, there being then 4 or 5 companies of foot, turned out their officers, and secured the castle and town so as they would not Disobey the Earl of Donegall then governor, nor Col. Mayart who was governor of the soldiers, in so much as the Duke of Ormond, then Lord Lieutenant, came himself in person, sending several companies of the Regiment of Guards by sea. Soon after the soldiers submitted, and some being hanged for example, the rest were sent away or dispersed into other companies.
Here Mintroe called Major General that was routed at Blackwater in the late wars by Owen McCarte O’Neile kept his chief garrison or headquarters being commander-in-chief of the British forces and was here surprised by General Monk and sent prisoner to the Parliament of England about ’48 or ’49.
In his time the public taxes were so great that I have heard the first Earl of Donegall say he paid more by fifteen pounds in one year than all his rents amounted unto.
Here Colonel Cooper, one of Cromwell’s lords of the other house died Governor soon after he heard of a free parliament in 1659 or about the beginning of 1660.
Sometimes great store of herring has been taken here; the only plentiful taking of them in my memory was in the year 1674. Yet every year they come in or touch as they pass by and few taken either for want of boats, the Bay being large, or by reason the fishers here are idle or neglect them for the herring fishing at Dublin where they repair every year though often to their loss, for very often some boats staying at home do better.
This town is commonly well furnished with sea fish as cod, small codlin, skate, plaice and sometimes soles, and with salmon from Lough Neagh and the Bann in summer. Here likewise a merchant may furnish himself with wheat, barley, grey peas, beans, oatmeal, beef, hide, tallow, butter, etc. in good plenty, taking the seasons of the year.
This place is a town and county of itself though compassed on all sides (except the sea to the south and south east) by the County of Antrim, and has a very fine and clear air round the town, for the most part under the hills. The largest river in the liberties is Woodburn whereon are two ordinary timber bridges. Here are two very handsome double mills for grain, both covered with slate.
There is only one lough called Lough Morne about an English mile long and half so much over. It is well furnished with pikes, and belongs to the Earl of Donegall. It seemed to be fed only with springs till of late a small river was turned into it, and affords no other fish except eels. I observe no springs near the town worth mentioning except two, the one in Bridewell Park belonging to the Earl of Donegall and furnisheth his great house by pipes etc. though half a quarter of a mile distant. The other is a little spring near the Earl of Donegall’s mill which I have seen (by mixing a little gall) look like claret, and turn milk to a posset, as I have been told by some experimenting the same. There is likewise at a pretty distance from the sea and a good height above it near this town a patch of ground that yields little grass and I am told the water which rises in it is brackish or salt.
(Marginal Note — Query what moon makes high water? Mem. ebb and flood. The Battle of Allfrackney.)
The people are not very industrious, for the lands being formerly divided which were given the town most people have some little estates and so rely upon them, the greatest trade now being in taverns and ale houses. If a man be hungry here he may have meat free in calling for a pot or two of ale, and so in taverns those that drink wine may have a dish 2 or 3 of good meat gratis and seldom is anything paid for meat by strangers but at assizes and sessions.
The assizes and sessions for the County of Antrim has always been kept here except at some times the sessions have been removed into the County at large upon some pique or displeasure of the County Justices, and of late years, to prevent the removing of assizes and sessions, the town is at the charge of maintaining the gaols and Shire Hall, yet the assizes have been kept here time out of mind, and when there was no Shire Hall (which is now I suppose not second to any in the kingdom) the assizes and sessions were held in the King’s Castle.
(Marginal Note — the number of houses and inhabitants.)
Here is Militia Company seldom consisting of less than a 100 able young men who have all taken the Oath of Allegiance and Supremacy, and the mayor for the time being is captain.
This town by charter returns two burgesses to parliament. By the charter no man is to be arrested in a freeman’s house.
The Corporation lands, arable. meadow and pasture, will be above a thousand enjoyed now by several proprietors, and there yet remains about a thousand acres of turbury heath and grazing which is common of little benefit to the town.
There is very good feeding which has been always allowed for the Lord Donegall’s troop for grazing in summer and hay for winter. The grazing suffices, but not the hay.
By charter the Corporation had granted to them the 3rd part of all customs of merchandise imported and exported between Beerloomes in the County of Down and Fayrforelongs in the County of Antrim, but sold by the town in the time of the Earl of Strafford’s government here for £3,000 which was to be laid out in land for the use of the town, but the town never had any benefit of it. The town within the walls is general built of lime stone or brick, and slate houses. One very large but short street. This town is in the Diocese of Connor, the dean called Dean of Connor though I know nothing he has but the name as dean except some small matter scarce fit to maintain a curate but helped by other livings whereof he is parson.
Mem. the Sweepstake [deleted] Speedwell lost, when how she lies.
Carrickfergus Highways. [From here on, MS sheets are folded.]
There are four gates: the Key Gate, the West or Irish Gate, the North Gate, and the East or Scotch Quarter Gate.
The Key Gate is so called because it opens upon the Key and who so pleases may out of this gate (which is commanded and so the Key by a musket of the Castle) take into any highway which the West Gate leads unto.
So soon as a man comes out of the West Gate he is in the Irish Quarter which is a suburb of the town making two ordinary streets. The right hand leads into the ways of Six Mile Water, Antrim, Connor, Ballymenagh. The left hand street or way directly to Belfast and so to Dublin. This way lies along near the sea, and at low water the strand may be rid to Belfast, though for the most part the strand is entered at a Mace called the White House which is about mid – way.
The North Gate is a fair large way leading north up hill above a mile which showing itself to the harbour when the Castle and it are even makes the best anchorage as I have heard for large ships. This highway leads to Larne, Glenarm and so to all the lower end of the County of Antrim.
The Scotch Quarter or East Gate leads through a suburb or street of that name. It was burnt by Sir George Muntrow, but rebuilt since. Here lie all the fishing boats belonging to the town and this way we travel to Kilroot, Broad Island, Island Magee.
All these ways for the most part are cawsy way, by reason of the deep clay ground.
Highways in the County of Antrim.
I begin at Lisburn and so downward in regard. I speak only of this County. From Lisburn there is a highway leads out of the west end of the town direct forward towards the Pigeon House, and a little beyond that branches, one way by the Maze to Moira, Magheralin, Lurgan, Portadown, Armagh, and the other to Brookhill and Portmore, the first the Earl of Conway’s house, the other Sir George Rawden‘s, and from the same end of the town within musket shot you turn to the right hand by Macheralave, Michael Harrison’s house, and so by a deer park of the Lord Conway’s up to Castle Robin over the mountain and so to Glenavy and directly Antrim.
From the bridge of Lisburn there is one highway to the right hand leads to Hillsborough and so to Dublin. The other the left hand direct (turning within half a mile on the right hand) leads to Lysnastrean (where the battle was fought between the late Lord of Ards, Earl of Mount Alexander, for the king; and Col. Venables, as I take it, for the parliament which I suppose was in ’48 or ’49) and so to Downpatrick. The other highway which you left to enter the last leads by Hill Hall, built by Lieut. Col Moses Hill which stands high upon the right hand, and so to Belfast. But I exceed my bounds for these ways are in the County of Down. There is another highway leads, from the east end of Lisburn to Lambeg where Sir George Rawden has iron works within a mile, and so to Belfast. And all the ways about Lisburn are very good not alone from the nature of the country which affords gravel and sand, but from Sir George’s great care of them, and the general work of the countrymen about him.
Mem. For a description of Antrim from Mr. Skevington.
From Antrim you have a highway that leaves the Lord Massereene‘s house on the left hand and is paved about half a mile. The rest fine sandy way over three small wooden bridges by the side of Lough Neagh to Shane’s Castle belonging to the Lady Marchioness of Antrim and from there to Randalstown commonly called the Iron Works. And from there one way goes to Staffordstown and so by the Toome ferry at the foot of Lough Neagh to the County of Derry. Another to Maghrehoghill and so to Portglenone to the County of Derry over the bridge. These ways after you pass Shane’s Castle are generally cawsy and ill riding in winter.
From Antrim to the north there is another way which leads by the steeple (a high round steeple) to Connor four miles, thence to Ballymenagh 3 miles, most cawsy but a tollerable good way winter and summer. Antrim is 12 miles from Belfast, the B ______________ Antrim, and same from Lisburn and Carrickfergus. From Belfast within musket shot of the North Street of the town you turn on the right hand to Carrickfergus and right forward leads you up Shankill Hill over the mountains to Castlenorton, Mr. Upton’s house, 9 miles and so to Antrim, cawsy most part and tollerable way, within 3 mile of Antrim very good way.
Ballymenagh which I take to be fittest to be called the centre of the County of Antrim you have one way leads to Galgorm, Sir Robert Colville’s house. From thence to over a stone bridge upon the Main Water and so to Ballymoney and Coleraine. This I count the best way to Coleraine.
From Ballymenagh you have another way that leads about half a mile out of the town and turning off to the right hand goes to Broughshane 3 miles, from thence to Glenarm 6 long miles, but right forward this way from Ballymenagh leads to Clogh, a house built by the first Earl of Antrim, out of repair, 5 miles away. From thence to Clogh Mills about two miles and so to Ballymoney 8 mile, thence to Coleraine 5 miles. From Clogh likewise there is a highway to Ballycastle keeping the mountains on your right hand. From Ballymoney or Ballycastle you may go to Dunluce, Bushmills, Ballintoy, but the nearest way to these is from Clogh Mills (if you come from the upper part of the county) by a little town called Dervock with a fair stone bridge over Dervock Water, by Derrykeighan, and so to Bushmills, a small town with a fair stone bridge over the Bush Water and so to Dunluce or Dunluce Hall, the Earl of Antrim’s house.
Who so rides either by the sea side or in sight rather of the sea go commonly by Larne, from thence by the church of Carncastle and so to Glenarm. From and by Larne to Glenarm are several highways but none good, for the lower way in winter is very deep wet clay way, and the upper way is great and steep hills, cawsy and deep in winter. From Glenarm he that would go near the sea to Coleraine go either over the mountain from the north west end the town to Red Bay where he must have a guide over the mountain, or if he go the low way which is bad cawsy clay ground and deep in winter, he has one hill that[is] very hard to ride up or down, and the way generally bad winter or summer. From Red Bay is very good way to Cushendun, but from thence over the mountains of Carey you must have a guide and very well you scape so. Another way is lower down in sight of the sea but very great hills, risings and fallings, slippery in winter and steep in summer. Once past the moor very good way to Ballycastle.
Four Baronies etc. Brief of the Sea Coasts of the County of Antrim to Coleraine. (Marginal Note — Loadstone Islandmagee) Begin at Copeland water. The bounds between the County of Antrim to the east. Parish of Kilroot, the bishop’s house. The well brought under ground here and Carrickfergus – none else observed in many miles – The shrinking well. Prebend of Kilroot, the tithes how possessed. My house, orchards, etc. (Marginal Note — Milne, prebend).
Broad Island or Templecorran next parish. Whitehead next to be spoken of from the limestone. Here is freestone, none of the best, and alabaster in several places between it and Carrickfergus. Some signs and outbursts of coal none tried for, the greatest appearance being under full sea mark and low. (Marginal Note — Limestone, Marl, Clay, Level Bottoms, Excellent ground). The hills high above here are store of foxes and otters not to be killed but by greyhounds or guns, their shelter being in the rocks. The church Ballycarry. The house by etc. Orchards. All farmers. All presbyterians except the parson, son, etc.
Island Magee, Ballyprior, Castlechichester. This island in Queen Elizabeth’s time belonged to the Earl of Essex whereof I have seen the patent after purchase by Arthur Lord Chichester. Sir Arthur (Arte Muil) set by him to Sir Moyses Hill, who built this square Castle hard upon the sea opposite north west of Copeland Isles, and called the same after Sir Arthur, Castlechichester. This is properly a peninsula, 5 miles long, in the narrowest places one mile over from the sea to Lough Larne. Mulderslea or Slieve. The lighthouse. Land 5000 acres for fork and scyth. The west side excellent ground, much of it limestone, bears wheat, peas, beans, barley but most oats. No loughs, two mills watered by springs, one of the mills unserviceable most of the summer.
(Marginal Note — the vara [nce] of the compass upon)
Port Davy north of Castlechichester a small port for fishing boats, or boats of 12 or 16 tons. No coming in at low water nor with safety in an easterly wind. 3 or four hours sail from Portpatrick in Scotland, as near as Donaghadee. Lough Ryan in Scotland opens to the Lough of Carrickfergus. The Black Cave, the piper, fox killed. A small landing place for fishing boats to the north of Black Head. Strong rocky shore. The cave built by Sir Moses, the occasion. No good landing till you come to Portmuck, many caves, pigeons, foxes, otters. (Marginal Note — So far done) The Gabbon, fowl, breeds, the hawks, the Irish.
The Maydne, the height of the rocks. The boy and tackle for fowl. Iron shore to Portmuck. Some remainders of an ancient castle,
sailingpoint next the sea, stands upon a rock. All limestone about this place. (Marginal Note — the horse cave) The Isle, Knee or Coney. Rabbits banished, fowl, sheep about 25 to be waded at low water, and at full sea ordinary boats may pass. Violent tides about the Isle. The (Chickens) Whullans/Wheelans from the wheeling tides, many’ fowl, seals, several rocks within like a pound but open at low water, only one seen at high water. This north north east from the mouth of Lough Larne. North or north west runs a ridge for 3 or four mile of rocks from these Hens etc. Chickens, some appear at low water whereon seals or sea calves lie and are about 2 leagues from the mainland of Ireland.
(Marginal Note — number of people) Return to Portmuck. An iron shore to Brown’s Bay. Dangerous for boats to come along this shore at mid tide because of point etc. The bay above a half a mile over, sand, one side the south east rocks limestone, the north west common blackish rocks and stones on which side is a small port for boats called Port Narrow.
Brown’s meadows turf. This end of the island lying north north west is some places sandy and dry fit for rabbits, but the inhabitants think no profit without corn. The people all Scotch and presbyterians and have a meeting house. A fair church called St. _____ several old church yards 2 or 3 burying places besides the church. Not one Irish nor English in the whole island (except sometimes a customhouse waiter). The tithes farmed at £110 per annum and the Dean of Carrickfergus vicar. Dean Warde.
(Marginal Note — so far accounted) This island to the south and the Corran to the east south east and the Corran of Larne opposite to it makes the harbour for large vessels about half a mile over. Compared to Kinsale by an English master. The Lough enlarges above and small barques to Larne town, runs up to about 4 miles till it meet a small stream_ dividing Islandmagee and Broadisland. The Lough above the old Castle about a quarter of a mile shallow, and ebbs at the head above a mile. Sir Moyses swimming, Swan Isle, Seal Isle, mullets, sign of oysters, store of plaice or nooks, no catching for crabs.
(Marginal Note — Corran dry sand and pays 2 bryst barrels of barley per acre.) Corran 120 acres. How the Earl of Antrim lost it. The old Castle. The Lough all sand and soft for vessels. Scotch trade most here. Shipping stopping from and to Derry or West Indies. Near the Corran towards Black Cave a grey marble. Iron shore to Ballygally Hill. The cave describe, fresh water, two small brooks between this and
Ballygally, more of this when I come to the parishes and towns. Ballygally Hill no landing fit for a cock boat. The great rock or stone. Strong tides about Ballygally Hill and under it the poet’s castle to the sea, steep not passable though grasses grow there. (Marginal Note — Prebend Carncastle). A sandy bay on which appears the Castle of Ballygally. A small place for his boats (one Shaw’s) at the foot of a little river within stone castle of the house. This is the Parish of Carncastle. (Marginal Note — Barony Glenarm) Deep clay. All presbyterians and Scotch except some very few Irish. This castle robbed in ’80 by some of the O’Neiles and O’Dreans from Londonderry County.
(Marginal Note — Meetinghouse) Good wheat ground but little grain sown here but barley and oats. Sometimes sow wheat after barley but no fallows. Iron shore all to Glenarm and great hills but between the hills and the sea very good land. Near Glenarm on the east south east is a deer park enclosed at the south with lime and stone wall, to the west with the natural rocks, only the door to enter the north west, likewise with the natural fences of rocks except 6 perches with rails, all the rest fenced with the sea. Excellent feeding for all sorts of cattle but dangerous for horses by reason of the steep places and rocks. The shore here, and so to Glenarm and a mile beyond tall limestone rocks.
(Marginal Note — Glenarm) Glenarm is market town of little trade except horses to Scotland, coals, linen cloth from Scotland, something of butter, cattle, yarn, 2 fairs. Stands at the head of a bay. The harbour not good to enter but in the day time, nor then for strangers. Round stones tornt and tossed between the sea and river.
(Marginal Note — Meeting house) The Abbey, stone bridge, Earl of Antrim’s house, the rest except one all thatched. Stands low not to be seen but one way till you be with[in] musket shot of the town except from Antrim and the sea. Salmon taken at the foot of the river. The Glen and hunting, fishing good but people idle. Inhabitants Scotch and Irish, Scotch in the town, the Irish upward, the one presbyterians, the other papists. Few protestants according to the Church of England, not above 8 or ten persons, and all in this town may be 100 families of one sort or other. The now Earl lived here since the king’s restoration and his own. (Marginal Note — Maxwell. curate.)
From Glenarm a mile to Glen Clew (a dale in the North of England – from clew = ‘a sword’, broad towards the sea, sharp to the mountains) sandy, pleasant. A handsome slated house near the bay about the middle, another at the north west end thatched, of lime and stone, and beyond that another handsome slate house which may be seen 20 miles at sea towards Scotland. Here a little place for fishing boats and fresh water. From this bay to a point called the Garron high over the sea an old fort and some sign of building on top of it. About 2 of 3 miles (still westward or west north west) and an iron shore with hills but good ground between them and the sea (a course petticoat with a gold line). Then appears Red Bay from the red freestone, the wildness, the fishing, out and in the cave, the river, Glenravell, the warren, Irish acres, lower way and upper, etc.
My account to Dublin is thus far and so begin:
Red Bay in the parish of Layde. The freestone along the shore under and beyond the castle tollerable to firm and good. The Irish acres or country measure. Cushendall, a pretty large river where a fishing boat may come in in fair weather.The church of Layde hard by without roof seems to have been a handsome country church with a square steeple about 30 feet high, stands in a bottom near the sea. No house within a quarter of a mile. This pleasant dry ground under the mountains a mile or two every way. The inhabitants most Irish or highlanders and for the most part conformable to the Church of England. From Cushendall a large point runs northwards from the mountains between Cushendall and Cushendun rivers. High land from Cushendall, the sea and Cushendun river make the point. Here are some appearances of iron mines, and round stones of red marble, probable a quarry might be found. Cushendun river, harbour, mountains, Slievenahoare. The entrance from the sea. The great flood and ground covered. The Torr, the Fair Head. Coal pits and manner of working, saltpans. The sound of Rachrye and Island. Bunamargy etc. Knocklayd, Clare, etc.
[Printed by permission of the Deputy Keeper of the Records of Northern Ireland.]
Schedule A —
WILLIAM MOLYNEUX’S QUESTIONAIRE
Whereas there is an accurate Account and Description of IRELAND designed to be made Publick in the “English Atlas” undertaken by Moses Pitt of London, and in Order thereto some Gentlemen in Dublin have agreed to meet weekly for reviewing such an Account, as shall from time to time come from under the Pen of Mr. William Molyneux, as also to bring in some Materials to the said Description; This is earnestly to entreat all Persons that they would be pleased freely to communicate their Answers to these following Quaeries, or any of them, Directing them to Mr. William Molyneux nigh Ormonds Gate in Dublin, or to any other of their Acquaintance in Dublin that may Communicate them to the said Mr. Molyneux, not forgetting to specifie in their Letters the place of their Habitation that they may be again written to if Occasion requires.
Queries to which Answers are Desired for the Illustration of that part of the “English Atlas” relating to
Ireland.
1 The nature of the Soyl of the County, or place, and the Chief Product thereof.
2 What Plants, Animals, Fruits, Mettals, or other Natural Productions there are peculiar to the Place, and how Order’d?
3 What Springs, Rivers, or Loughs, with the various Properties thereof, as whether Medicinal, how replenished with Fish, whether
Navigable, Rapid, or Slow, etc.
4 What Curiosities of Art, or Nature, or Antiquity are or have bin found there?
5 What Ports for Shipping, and their Description, and what Moon causes High Water?
6 What great Battels have been there fought, or any other Memorable Action, or Accident?
7 What peculiar Customs, Manners, or Dispositions the Inhabitants of each County, or Town have among them?
8 How each County is Inhabited, thickly or thinly?
9 What Places give, or formerly have given Title to any Noble-man; as also what Ancient Seats of Noble Families are to be met with?
10 What Towns of Note in the County, and especially Towns Corporate?
11 The names of such Towns both Antique and Modern, English and Irish, and why so called?
12 The Magistracy of Towns Corporate, and when Incorporated, and by whom built, with their return of Parliament Men?
13 Trade of the Town, with the number of Houses, and Inhabitants, and manner of Buildings.
14 what publick, or Antique Buildings?
15 What Synods have been held there, what Monasteries, Cathedral, or other Churches are or have been there ‘nd fr•ni what Saint named?
16 In what Bishoprick each County or any part thereof is?
This Paper may be had Gratis at the Shop of Mr. Dudley Davis Bookseller over against the Rose Tavern in
Castle Street, Dublin; Where is to be sold The Ancient Usage in bearing Ensigns of Honour as are called
Arms, with a Catalogue of the Present Nobility and Baronets of England, Scotland, and Ireland. By Sir
William Dugdale Knight, Garter Principle King at Arms. And by Moses Pitt at the Angel in St. Pauls
Church-yard London.
It’s Desired that Answers to these Queries may be given as to any other Country whatsoever.
(Printed by permission of the Bodelian Library, Oxford.)
Schedule B —
Discrepancies between the Trinity College Copy of Richard Dobbs’ Description of the County of Antrim and that found in the Rev. George Hill’s “Macdonnells of Antrim”, pp 376-389.
[Only discrepancies having consequential bearing on the meaning of the texts are dealt with; those arising from violations in the use of punctuation, spelling, capital letters, old English, etc. having been ignored. ]
[Page and line references to Hill’s ‘Macdonnells of Antrim’.] Errors — subject concerned given in parentheses.
| Page | Line | Error in italic | Correction |
| 377 | 38 | (Portglenone) by making up of Cotts | Use |
| 378 | 5 | (Lough Beg) opinion in the countries | country |
| 379 | 20 | (Sir Moses Hill’s butler) a little odd . . . man | old |
| 380 | 30 | (The Maidens) stones so soddened• or wedged | soddered |
| 380 | 50 | (Larne harbour) one of the best | least•• |
| 381 | 17 | (The Curran) about 20 or 40 acres | 120 |
| 382 | 19 | (Glenarm) two fine fairs | omit ‘fine’ |
| 383 | 3 | (Ballynure) held by the Crown | of |
| 383 | 6 | (Ballynure) Midsummer eve, and Xmas | Lammas |
| 383 | 13 | (Broad Island) at the Temple-corran | als |
| 383 | 16 | (Belfast) between the Mill and the common pond | pound |
| 383 margin | (Downpatrick) many remarkable cures | miraculous | |
| 384 4 | (Kilwaughter) about 20 deep | so | |
| 384 | 9 | (Kilwaughter) built Castle ways with a Barn Wall | Bawn |
| 384 margin | (Clogh Mills) and / did there say | some | |
| 385 16 | (Glenarm) the lower parts of the country | county | |
| 386 | 17 | (Ballymoney) the first in the County | country |
| 386 | 27 | over the mountains to Cary | of |
| 387 | 3 | (Carrickfergus) This gate | Castle |
| 387 | 38 | (Carrickfergus quay) cost £11,000 or f12, 000 | £1,100 of £1,200 |
| 387 | 42 | (Carrickfergus) elected mayor annually | Ann ••• |
| 389 | 20 | (Sir Henry O’Neill) and her mother | his |
See W. H. Patterson’s “Glossery of Words and Phrases in use in the Counties of Antrim and Down,” (1880) p.95. where the error persists.
- • From the context and The Notes, this appears to be an error by the writer of the Trinity College •
Copy, subsequently corrected in Hill’s printed version.
- •• Ann followed by a space, as if the year were to be inserted later.
Omissions — subject concerned given in parentheses. Page Line Omission in italics
376 26 (Letter introduction) Sir. Also omitted from letters on pp. 386 and 389.
378 44 (Ballycarry) the Church has a small town or village (which has two poor
fairs belonging to it yearly) called Ballycarry.
379 45 (Stalactites in Piper’s Cave) the rock is black and they white
380 17 (Portmuck) ill when the wind blows north or north-west.
380 19 (Portmuck Isle) or Knee Isle, I suppose from Conny’s Isle, for here were formerly
rabbits.
380 39 (Turf in Brown’s Bay) he has found very good turf, first he throws off one or two spade deep
of clay or earth and then has moss fit for turf, and under that moss clay appears again,•
382 10 (Glenarm harbour) but ill coming over the Bar,
382 36 (Garron Point) Fishing boat may come ashore: beyond this about four miles is a high hill
called Doon, whereon appears a fort just over the sea and some appearance of an old
building this all Iron shore and strong tides, beyond this appears Red Bay .. .
382 49 (The Irish) are more civilized, by the present Earl’s living at Glenarm, ar.d since the king’s
restoration.
383 • 19 (Spring water) looked like White Wine or Lees and had not the taste of ordinary water.
384 11 (Kilwaughter spring) drank try the ordinary people when sick hereabout’,.
384 33 (Cranfield Well May Day stones) nor to be void by thieves —
386 2 Randalstown (where Iron works are yet standing but want Jewell) and thence to Staf-
fordstown,
.,. 386 12 and so to Colrain, / take this to be the best way to Colrain; fromBallymeanogh is another highway .
- . 387 47 (Joymount House) an old gentleman (who had been Secretary to Sir Foulk Conway once here) say it cost at least £20,000.
388 12 (Use of turf in Carrickfergus) of which there is as good here as the kingdom affords in great plenty.
388 15 011 remaining omissions refer to the Town or County of Carrickfergus] nor is there at this
day one known papist living within the walls of the Town and only about 30 poor Irish
people men and women (as the Priest has told me) within the liberties and one Englishman.
The Dean of Connor is parson of this Town and resides here now: Tho. Ward.
388 24 nor is any other justice of the Peace to intermeddle here but the Mayor and Recorder. The
Mayor is first in Commission for the Assizes and the Governour next.
At present the Rt Honourable Francis Lord Angier Earl of Longford is Governr of Carrickfergus and one of our Aldermen; so are the Earl of Donnegall, the Earl of Mount Alexander and William Hill of Hillsborough Esqr whose Grandfather Sir Moses Hill, Father Collonll Arthur Hill, and Edward Brother Lieut. Collonll Moses Hill were aldermen before him and the first and last . c both Mayors of the 7–own, twice electea.
388 in the year 1674, yet every year they come in or touch as they go by to the West of Ireland,
but few taken for want of Boats, the Bay being large or by reason the fishers are idle or
neglect them for the herring fishing of Dublin, where they repair every year though often to
their loss, for commonly the Boats staying at home do better.
‘ 388 29 sometimes Turbets and Hollybut, Plaice, Sole, Coalfish and .
388 31 Wheat, Barley, oltirgefolitory ? White Oats, Beans, Gray pease
388 38 There is only one fresh water lough called Lough Morn .. .
388 46 by lead pipes though the fountain pretty distant from it.
388 48 will turn a little into a posset. There is likewise as I was told 20 years since at some distance
from the sea and considerably above it a patch of Ground that yields little grass, and that affords water salt or brackish hard by the Town.
388 49 little given to industry or labour or dilligent in trades. many of them having little estates ..
388 52 no Shire Hall (which now is not inferior I suppose to any in the Kingdome) the Assizes and
Sessions were held . .
389 1 Here is a malitia Company of about 80 men (I have known it above al00)lusty and young who
have all taken the Oaths of Supremacy and allegiance. The Mayor for the time being is Captain.
This Town returns two Burgesses .
389 17 Sir Henry Sydney (I suppose father of Sir Phillip being then Lord Denuiv-General of Ireland
and first landed at this Town) gave money towards the repair ot the church …
389 21 of this monument and some other places of the Church shall be more particularly returned. I
find likewise that Anno 1573 the 2nd of June Captain William Pyerce being Mayor that this Town was almost destroyed by Sir Brian McPhelemy O’Neill setting the same on fire. In the same year about the 20th of August the Earl of Essex landed here Governor of Ulster, accompanied (as the words are) with many Lusty Gentlemn. Anno 1568 Queen Elizabeth altered our Charter (with additions of many privileges) from Mayor and Bailiffs to Mayor, Sheriffs, Burgesses and Commonality. Sir Henry Sydney Lord Deputy. The Irish have a prophecy of this Town . .
389 27 and durst not trust all to one bottome.”
* Similar sequence has been found at Ballylumford and more recently (1977) by drillings beneath the foreshore in Carnlough Bay.
*• Suggesting that Dobbs’ despatches travelled to Dublin by sea.
I look just like richard dobbs my grandfather name is harold dobbs i think its net being able to see the pictures of family members from the 1600s