Statistical Account of Ardclinis and Laid

Having previously published the Ordnance Survey Memoirs for both the above parishes, the Society now presents a reprint of a survey made in 1817, some fifteen years earlier, by their curate. The survey is found in Vol. III of William Shaw Mason’s “Statistical Account or Parochial Survey of Ireland” 1819 from which it has been taken.

The Rev. Richard Stewart Dobbs belonged to that great family which for almost two hundred and fifty years had already served the County of Antrim with loyalty and distinction. Four of his ancestors had been the county’s High Sheriff. His father, Francis, a barrister, had been member for Charlemont in the Irish House of Commons, where he was familiarly known as “Millennium” Dobbs on account of his idealism. He voted against abolishing the Irish Parliament in Dublin. Richard’s uncle, as a young naval officer home on leave in 1778, having volunteered his services, found himself second-in-command of the “Drake” during her gallant but ill-fated action off Carrickfergus against the “Ranger” under the redoubtable Captain Paul Jones. His ready offer cost Lieutenant William Dobbs, R.N., his life.

The Rev. Richard Stewart Dobbs (b. 10th October, 1774; d. 30th October 1829) served as Curate of Laid from the death of his predecessor, the Rev. Denis McArthur, in 1796 till his own death thirty-three years later. The old church of Laid having lately fallen into total disrepair, Mr. Dobbs at once set about building a new one. By 1800 he had succeeded in erecting a somewhat temporary building at Cairns just outside Cushendall, on the old middle road to Cushendun. During the same year Mr. Dobbs married the Hon. Henrietta, daughter of his parishioner Alexander McAuley of Glenville. They spent their early married life in or close to the town of Cushendall, but by 1813, with five children and a sixth expected, they were obliged to seek a larger home. As Mr. Dobbs’ work took him southward into Ardclinis, he settled upon the Bay Lodge, just inside that parish. This, as he explains in the survey, he enlarged and embellished with gardens and orchard. Here he resided with his wife and eight children for the remainder of his ministry, and it was here he died.

As a great grandson of Richard Dobbs, writer in 1683 of the well- known description of the Antrim coast, and grand nephew of Arthur Dobbs, one-time Surveyor General of Ireland, Richard Stewart Dobbs seems to have had the surveyor’s ability in his blood. He wrote in 1817, before the new coast road had opened up the Glens, and some fifteen years before the Ordnance Survey Memoirs for these parishes had been written. He had already been curate of Laid for twenty-one years and wrote from personal knowledge of both parish and parishioners. It is clear from the report that he had a high regard for the people of his parish, and that in turn he enjoyed their respect and esteem.

Name of the parish, Situation, Extent, Etc.

The parish of Ardclinis, or Ardcleny being contiguous to and nearer Glenarm than that of Layd, Laid, or Lede, shall be first described.

The arable and inhabited part of this parish consists of one long stripe, extending from the small village of Carnlough along the sea coast into Red Bay, and up one side of the beautiful glen of Glenariff. It is enclosed on the land side by a steep and high mountain, to be ascended only by narrow paths traversing its sides, by which the inhabitants convey their fuel of turf on slide cars, composed of two poles, fastened by rungs in the hinder part, on which is placed a wicker creel, about a yard square having no wheels, it does not press on the ponies which draw it downwards, and it is so light as to be easily drawn up when empty.

The extent of the cultivated part of the parish is about nine miles and a half viz, three and a half from Carnalough to the entrance of Red Bay, or, as it is commonly called, Foran Path or Garron Point; three to the inner shore, and three up the Glen towards the interior of the country. The arable ground from the sea to the hill does not exceed one quarter of a mile in breadth, and in some places not one tenth, except across the Red Bay to a little village called the Waterfoot of the Acre, or Glenariff River, about a mile, mostly sandy ground, and occupied as a rabbit warren, till lately cultivated for potatoes which are planted on sea-weed – at Carnalough, also, it is about a mile broad. Excepting at the village now named, the river Acre in the mearing between the parishes of Ardclinis and Laid. The river must have a little changed its course at this point.

Ardclinis lies in the barony of lower Glenarm, county of Antrim, and diocese of Connor. It is bounded on the north and north-east by the sea and Red Bay; on the north and north-west by the parish of Laid; on the south by the parish of Teckmacreevan or Glenarm, from which it is divided by the little rivulet of Carnalough; on the west and south-west by the parishes of Dunaghy and Skerry.

In general, a portion of these mountains, which lie from six to seven hundred feet above the level of the sea, or so many sums grazing, are attached to each denomination of the low land; a sum consists of either eight wethers, six ewes and six lambs, or a cow; a horse is one sum and a half. Just above Bay Lodge is the highest part of these mountains, called Carneal-apt-aura, near Broughshane.2

The Acre River rises in the neighbouring mountains, and affords some good trout. There is also a salmon-fishery where it empties itself into the sea, the mother fish spawning in the river. It is worthy of remark that the fry leave the river in April, scarcely two ounces in weight, the large salmon waiting for them, and in the month of June, they begin to return always from the southward, in shoals, weighing from four to eight pounds each. They are remarked as differing from the Bann salmon in being longer in proportion, and not so well shaped. The other fish of this bay consist of cod, lythe, (in figure and shape like cod,) turbot, different kinds of flat fish, mullet, mackerel, glashen, and herrings, caught both by draft and drift nets; the only shell-fish are lobsters and crabs, which are taken in great numbers. The greatest difficulty in being supplied with fish at all times, is want of bait, which very often cannot be got – however, when the weather permits, the nets answer the purpose. At particular times sand-ells are taken in great quantities; they make excellent bait.

The mountains are mostly covered with heath and supply moor game in the season. The black game have been brought from Scotland but will not live in Ireland. There are some partridge and, in winter, woodcocks and snipe. Oak and fir trees are found lying in different directions, some feet deep in the turf bogs on the mountains; and it is in memory when Glenariff was covered with trees, so that it was a saying, that a man could cross the glen upon them – now there is nothing but underwood, and even that is disappearing fast; a few old trees near the houses still remain. Ash, larch fir, sycamore, and alder, seem to grow best; apple and small fruit trees do well when planted in sheltered gardens.

Glenariff, one of the seven great glens is flat in the centre. The river moves in a serpentine manner through its whole extent; and, being nearly as low as the sea half way up the glen, whenever a high tide meets a flood, it overflows a great part of the grounds. The glen comes to a point where the roads to Ballymena from each side meet, about three miles from the sea; its base formed by the sandy beach, extending about a mile. The rise on each side of the glen forms towards the rocks a circular appearance of rising ground; two-thirds of it are cultivated; shells and sea-gravel are found under the present surface. As far as relates to the glens in general, including those both in the parishes of Ardclinis and may be stated, that one-half of Glenariff is in the parish of Ardclinis and the other in that of Laid – Glen Ballyemen is in the parish of Laid as is also Glenanne, Glencorp and Glendun besides others of inferior note.
 
The number of acres in Ardclinis as reported by the Down Survey3 and Antrim Report, amounted to about 9500; the one-half may be allowed as fit for pasturage and arable leaving one-half, or 4750 acres, of mountain, one-fourth of which may be useful for sheep. The appearance of the parish of Laid is of hill and dale of large dimensions; the cultivation rises high up the hills and consists of potatoes, oats, barley, flax and rearing small cattle and sheep in the pasturable parts of the mountains.

Laid is bounded on the north by the parish of Culfeightrin; on the east by the Irish Channel, or Northern Passage; on the west by the parish of Dunaghy; and on the south by the parish of Ardclinis. Its extent along the shore may be about six miles, from the inland about five and a quarter, in some places less. From the nature of the lands, and the manner in which they are set, it is impossible to ascertain the exact number of acres; but it may be conjectured that the parish is five and a quarter miles in length by six in breadth, of which, 5714 acres, paying cess, are in cultivation, including meadow and milch cows’ grass. Up Glendun, on the opposite side of the river is a small tract which belongs to the parish of Laid, called the Grange of Ennisfallen, and which pays no tythes as being held by Bishop’s lease; it is now in the possession of the Rev. John Smith. At the head of Glendun is Slievenahorra, a mountain whose summit is 1870 feet4 above the level of the sea. On the top of this mountain there are evident marks of two graves, said to be those of Hugh McPhelim O’Neill, and of a servant of Hugh O’Neill one on the Dunluce side of the mearing, between it and Lower Glenarm and the other on the Glenarm side. The tradition is, that a great battle was fought on this mountain between the McQuillans and the McDonnels.

Salmon is caught in this parish at the mouth of all the rivers; and, as it forms one side of Red Bay, a bay with good anchorage and safe in all winds but an easterly one, all the points mentioned in Ardclinis parish, as to the fisheries, relate to this. In Laid the land is good, and has a quantity of meadow in the low grounds. There is a general observation that tough the grounds are sowed earlier by three weeks in the north, or Laid side, than in the south side of Glen Glenariff, the crops come in earlier in the latter. It can only be accounted for by supposing it to be occasioned by the north side being shaded from the sun in the autumn, during the latter part of the day, by the high hill of Lurgethan, which bounds Glenariff to the north.

Mines, Minerals, etc

The coast is covered with white limestone, which is easily burned by turf or coal from Ballycastle or Scotland; it is good manure for most lands. In the immediate vicinity of the sea, the use of sea-weed for kelp manure is very common. A considerable quantity of kelp is made along this shore.
 
In Laid parish are some good quarries of coarse freestone, of which are made flags for floors or building. It has been thought that coals could be found in this parish, but that they would not defray the expense of mining. Turf is the general fuel and when cut in the mountains and well saved, is almost as hard as coal, and produces a very strong and clear fire. White limestone is abundant in most parts of the parish and a great quantity is burned when the turf is plenty. At Tieve Bouilue, the property of Lord Mark Kerr, a road is making from the main road, to encourage the business, but lime burned with coal, particularly blind coal,5 is far superior for every use. Some years ago, the father6 of the present Mr. McAuley of Glenville built kilns and gave lime to such of his tenants as would be at the trouble of drawing it. The offer was then accepted but by few; now the farmers will lay out from six to eight pounds per acre for it; the increase of rents, with the proportionate demand for provisions, may account for the change.
 
Modern Buildings
 
The village of Carnalough can boast of nothing remarkable; it contains two public houses. It is about 29 miles north of Belfast and Belfast is in the latitude of 54 degrees 35’ 43” N and longitude 5 degrees 58’ 14” west of London.

The road from Carnalough to Red Bay is very hilly. From the Point, the road lies through limestone rocks that have fallen from the hills upwards of 800 feet high, so that in a winter storm, a traveller is exposed to stones from above, the spray of the sea beneath and the risk of slipping, in some spots of the road, from pressure of the clay under his feet. It is not forty years since this south entrance to the low glens7 was impassable for anything, but a single horse, and even that with difficulty. The road has gradually been improved and now numbers of travellers pass on their way to the Giant’s Causeway and greater improvements are making for the convenience of passengers, particularly at the Point of Garron, where there is an almost perpendicular hill of short ascent. Francis Turnley Esq. who purchased a property in the Parish of Ardclinis is endeavouring to relieve it at his own expense and at no distant period a great improvement on this line of road may be expected. In tracing it from Glenarm, the traveller may remark after immediately passing the village of Carnalough, on the right hand, a quay, made by the late Mr. Philip Gibbons, at his own expense; it cost £1200 and though it is not of much use at present, as there is no trade, the intention was laudable and it may be of service hereafter.

About three-quarters of a mile on the left is Limnalary House, the residence of Peter Mathewson, Esq. Captain of the Glenarm Yeomanry; it was built by a Gentleman of the name of McCollum. About a mile further on the left, is a very neat and elegant school-house built by Francis Turnly, Esq. on the foundation of Sir Erasmus Smith, for the education of 40 boys and 40 girls; this is the only school in the parish; the arrangements are nearly completed. In the rear of this house and among some venerable trees, close to the site of an old house called Drumnasole, Mr. Turnly is building a most commodious and excellent house, 63 feet square, and four stories high, including garrets and underground apartments with back additions; as it is built much out of view, the taste displayed in its erection can only be judged by the finish of the school-house in front. A great deal of planting is in forwardness.

At a short distance on the right, is Nappen, the residence of John Higginson, Esq. Major of the Antrim Militia. The ground rising to the mountains is beautifully covered with hazel and other trees to the very top. There is a good deal of ash and fir timber about the house, and a tolerably good orchard.
 
About four miles further, on the left at the corner of Red Bay, is the house of the Rev. Richard Stewart Dobbs8 called Bay Lodge mostly built by himself; it is as pleasant and convenient a situation as any along the coast, and when the planting grows up will be well sheltered. Its contiguity to the beach for bathing, to the river and the sea for fishing and to the mountainous ground for shooting, gives it many advantages. It has an excellent garden and orchard.
 
As we pass over the bridge on the Acre river from this parish into Laid, at the Waterfoot, on the left the road goes up the north side of Glenariff till it joins the road leading to Ballymena by the South side, passing Bay Lodge; it is not yet passable, except for single horses. After passing the bridge, the traveller on turning to the sea finds some curious caves, of which a fuller account will be given hereafter. In high tides in winter, and even in summer, there is sometimes a difficulty, if not an impossibility, in passing the waves.

The traveller then immediately comes to a steep hill called Crookanavick; by cutting down several feet of the top, it is easier of ascent and descent than formerly, but still is a very disagreeable pass. At the bottom of this hill, next the sea on the entrance of the Acre river, is the salmon fishery formerly mentioned. On mounting the hill on the right hand side, nearly over the sea, the remains of Red Bay Castle are visible.
 
After leaving the hill, the small village of Red Bay appears. It belongs to Hugh Stewart Boyd, son of Hugh McAulay Boyd Esq. the supposed author of Junius, according to Lawrence Dundas Campbell. It may be remarked here, that scarcely a gentleman in this parish has his property in one place, which perhaps arose from the same principle that acts upon the present occupiers of the land, who, when a townland is divided among them, divide the ground into good, middling and bad and each tenant takes a share of those divisions, commonly called a rundale. However, with some difficulty that system has in a great measure been broken through, the land valued, and each person enjoys his own share exclusively, which encourages the making of fences.

Proceeding from Red Bay to Cushendall, on the left is the seat of Samuel Boyd, Esq. called Mount Edwards. It is one of those old snug9 farm-houses that were built by gentlemen who got grants of tracts of land, in former days, from the Antrim family; they now make estates of some value; Mr. Boyd’s ancestor was the holder of one of these. Since he has occupied it, great improvements have been made in gardening, planting, fencing and liming the farm, convenient and excellent out-houses erected, and an intention expressed to rebuild the house. The bold front of Lurick Gedden, or Lurg Gethan, lies just behind the house, 1100 feet above the level of the sea, or 984 feet from its base, as taken at Mount Edwards. On the right is the Catholic chapel. There is nothing remarkable between this and Cushendall, the mercantile village of this district. Doctor James McDonnell of Belfast, has planted near the chapel a great number of trees, which are doing well. If his good wishes for the parish could be properly supported, he is entitled to every person’s thanks for his endeavours to promote knowledge and give medical advice to those who apply from this district, which he estimates highly as the place of his nativity.

Cushendall lies about one mile north of the Waterfoot bridge. If, before he enters the town or village of Cushendall, the traveller turns to the left, he finds himself in the direction of Ballymena, the road to which is carried up the mountains by the north side of Lurg Gethan, which joins the road of Glenariff to Ballymena, about five miles from Cushendall. At this place there is a mountain herd’s house, where a traveller can get a glass of spirits, and where lives have been saved instead of license paid. The parish has given £2 to encourage the man for affording occasional relief in winter storms to those attending Ballymena markets.

Mr. Turnly is busily employed in cutting a road round Red Bay castle, by the shore, so as to avoid the steep hill which at present inconveniences travellers; it cannot be done without considerable expense but will make the road completely level to Cushendall. The face of Lurg Gethan is covered with white limestone.
 
Cushendall lies somewhat less than a quarter of a mile from the sea, between rising grounds and at the bottom of the glen of Ballymena;10 it is a neat village, containing four tolerable shops, four minor ones, six public houses, a post-office conducted by Mr. Randall M’Donnell, and a considerable number of houses, one of which serves as a barrack for twenty men. It has a corn-mill, which is to be replaced by a market house, a new building being in forwardness for a mill by Mr. Turnly. A late erected mill for spinning flax not at present occupied but well situated for the business, with a house for a small family is the property of Captain Lewry, of the Antrim Militia.

The River Dall, formed from the united streams of Glen Ballyeman and Glenanne, passes through the village under a neat bridge between Cushendall and the shore. There is a large and convenient house begun by William Richardson, Esq., and finished by Mr. Turnly, the present possessor of Cushendall; it is intended for a hotel, with convenient stabling so as to induce people to visit the town for the purpose of bathing and for travellers to stop at; the house is near the sea, and water plenty at all times of the tide for bathing. Cushendall, the name of this village, in English the Foot of the River Dall, was changed by the late Surgeon Richardson to Newtown-Glens, but under Mr. Turnly it has resumed its old name. There is nothing remarkable in Glen Ballyeman for beauty.
 
On leaving Cushendall on the old direct road, and proceeding up the hill, the traveller meets with a small fort, on which Mr. Turnly purposes to build a school-house – it will be in a very conspicuous situation; that and the other buildings about the town will give it a striking appearance which runs over high ground commanding the sea till it comes to the village of Knocknacarry. Near this village is a tan-yard and a good house, belonging to Archibald and Charles McIlhereen, called Clony about three miles from Cushendall. On this road there is nothing remarkable but the site of the old church, in a small glen near the sea, which is the chief burying ground of the parish; there are two other places for burying children. On approaching it, a neat place with a new built house called Moneyvert, present itself, the residence of Mr. Michael Black. His brother is building a house, equally good on the shore, in a situation very eligible for bathing but not for planting, of which there is a good deal about Moneyvert. From the centre of Cushendall on the left is a new line of road through part of Glennane and Glencorp., which when finished will form a perfect level to the village of Knocknacarry, equally distant as the road leading to the right. This line will pass Tromra the residence of the late Rev. Daniel McArthur, who with his father and grandfather, were curates in this parish for 100 years, prior to 1796. In this line of road is a great number of trees and respectable farm-houses.

On the right side from the church on very high ground is the seat of Alexander McAulay, or Macaulay, of Glenville, Esq. eldest brother of the supposed author of Junius. The house is well built, and is further remarkable for this singular motto engraved over the hall-door, “Dulce Periculum, Boot and Spurs.” If the surrounding grounds had been planted it would have been a very beautiful situation, at present it is rather exposed and bare; some planting however, is in forwardness.

This centre road (passing mostly through an undulating country) leads to the church. It was built by the Rev. Richard Stewart Dobbs. In the year 1800, by subscription and parish cess; the late Col. McArthur, brother of the Rev. Daniel McArthur, contributed very handsomely to it in his will. It is to be observed, that this church or chapel received no assistance in aid of its erection from the Board of First Fruits, who declined giving money unless the old church was in ruins for 20 years. It is at present rather small for the congregation; if money can at any time be got for a larger church, the present chapel would answer for a parish school. There is no glebe-house in either parish, nor is there any church in Ardclinis.

On advancing to the right, a little round hill, called Tievinrah, present itself, which if planted would have a very picturesque effect. On the left opens the view of Tieve Bouilue, or side of a town, 842 feet11 above the level of the sea at Cushendall, with plenty of white limestone in front; and at the back of the rising ground is Trostram, 1800 feet12 above the level of the sea. In describing these mountains there is little worthy of notice but that with the exception of some grazing here and there, they are all covered with heath, and afford good shooting in summer. Glennane has little to recommend it. From the mountains to the river is one continued slope on both sides. The soil of the mountains is entirely a turf bog under the heath.

Before arriving at Knocknacarry, on turning to the left, the traveller comes to the new birdge13 over the Dun river, leading to Ballycastle which conducts him up Glendun, a very handsome glen, extending some miles in length; it is wider in some parts than in other and there are some very romantic spots in it. It is only accessible to riders, as no roads have yet been made through it.
 
There is a road in progress up Glenanne, over the mountain to Ballymoney, which will be of essential use, and will join Glendun Road. On passing through the village of Knocknacarry, a turn to the left leads to the old bridge, eight feet wide, over the Dun river into the parish of Culfeightrin, which is the mearing of the parish at this point. On the right from Knocknacarry, is a descent to the sea and to the little port of Cushendun, or foot of the river Dun, where a number of small vessels harbour all the winter; but vessels of 50 tons can cross the bar. From this town there is a constant passage of travellers to the opposite coast of Cantyre, in Scotland, who carry with them black cattle and pigs and return with Highland ponies. The passage is about 16 miles and may be made in three hours. At this place, close to the sea, are some curious caves, of which hereafter.
 
From this point there is a view of Cushendun house, on the other side of the river, the residence of Edmund McNeile, Esq. The shore from Cushendall Bay to Cushendun is not accessible to boats, being bold and rocky, except where the old church or monastery was formerly built and at a little port called Port Vinegar, behind a large rock, where in calm weather a vessel of twenty tons can discharge a cargo.

From the high grounds is a view of the Scotch coast from the Mull of Galloway to the Island of Mull, including the Islands of Isla, Jura with its three hills, called the Paps of Jura, the Mull of Cantyre, Arran, Bute, Rock of Ailsa, near the Ayrshire coast, etc in which numerous vessels entering the channel for the different ports in the Clyde and the Irish Channel, serve to enliven the scene and cheer the imagination.

Ancient Buildings, etc

In the parish of Ardclinis, near Ardclinis bridge and Bay Lodge, are the remains of an old building14 together with a burying ground.

In Laid parish, on Crooksnavick hill, and nearly over the sea, are situated the ruins of an old building, now called Red Bay Castle, but in an old map it was called Castle Carey. Under it is a large vault with an opening, from which the view is very agreeable to the eye.

On the top of Lurg Gethan is a Danish Fort, and the remains of a great dike across one part of the hill, enclosing about 40 acres. At the bottom of the south side15 is another Danish fort, at a place called the Nochans. There are many remains of small enclosures both in Ardclinis and Laid, which also are called Danish Forts. At the point of Garron is a spot called Dunmall fort; this and many of the same description were intended to resist the incursions of the Scots, being fixed on situations not to be approached by sea, and in old times difficult of access by land; they were easy of defence. The only appearance they now have is that of a great ditch, which, when perfect might have prevented a sudden incursion; very little signs of stones appear in any of them. In the hill above Cushendall are the remains of another Danish fort.

Of the old church already noticed16, nothing appears but the walls and a few tombstones of recent date except one stone in the east of the walls, which bears the date of 1696. This must have reference to repairs, as the graves are nearly five feet higher than the present inside of the Church. The thigh bone of a man of very large stature is to be seen in a crevice of the wall. The two oldest tombstones are of Matthew Pettegrew, 1716, (the family is now extinct,) and Col. McDonnell, 1719; this latter bears the Antrim arms.

Present and Former State of Population, Food etc.
 
In March, 1806, the Rev. Richard Stewart Dobbs, Curate, took an account of the population of this parish, and found it to consist of 119 Protestant families, containing 584 souls; 511 Catholic, containing 2,430 souls; a total 630 families, making 3,014 inhabitants. By a late return, the increase seems about 730, and from less than five has increased to five and a half to a family – making 3,750 souls.

The food of the inhabitants is generally oatmeal, potatoes, and milk or fish. Except in some decent farmers’ houses, the smoke comes more freely from the door than the intended chimney, which is generally at the gable of the house, the fire being on the floor. Till the great rise of lands the farmers were considered wealthy, and gave great entertainments at weddings and christenings. The writer recollects port wine of excellent quality produced. Public christenings are now unusual – unfortunately, their character in this respect is now but too much the reverse, from high rents and low prices for butter, pork and yarn, the only articles, depended upon to pay rents, etc. The paupers seldom exceed 16, and a small relief satisfies them, except in years of want.
 
In general this is considered a healthful country; few diseases are known, except consumption among the young, and low fevers – there are many instances of longevity. John McBride of Cushendall is nearly 100 years of age, as are several others. Mr. McAulay of Glenville and Owen McCoy, his tenant, are both above 80, and their names are inserted as lives in a lease of lands held at four shillings per acre. Both men and women dress remarkably well. The young women generally carry their white stockings and dress shoes in their hands, going to Cushendall fair (eight times in the year) till they are just at the entrance of the village; they then stop at the nearest stream to wash and dress. The Fairs now spoken of are more attended for amusement than business, and though sometimes broken heads are their consequence, it cannot be said that they often lead to a result so common in many other parts of Ireland.

Genius and Disposition of the Poorer Classes, etc

The general conduct of the inhabitants is peaceable; they are amenable to the orders of their superiors. During a long residence of twenty-one years, as curate, the writer does not think it indispensably necessary to lock his door or bar his windows. The inhabitants are generally free from vices. They have a great deal of natural shrewdness and address, and are remarkable for being liberal and attentive. If manufactures could be established, as they are inclined to make money, it would assist them in paying their rent, and give employment to most families; they have very little inclination for going abroad, and consequently, so many remain at home, that numbers of them are left in involuntary idleness for nearly half the year. The great rise of rents must make them more industrious; but, at the same time, if provisions, consisting chiefly of butter and pork, fall, the farmer may find difficulty in paying his landlord, whose object must be to let his tenant have an interest in his farm, otherwise he must lose in the end, and the tenantry be careless whether they remain or not.

The inhabitants of Laid are considered a shrewd, cunning people with a great deal of native hospitality. Here, as well as in Ardclinis they speak Irish fluently among themselves, and most of them very good English, perhaps better and in a purer dialect than many English. Irish, in the hills and tops of glens, is the most prevalent language; and there are some old people in remote places who can speak no other language, though they know the meaning of most English phrases; there are also some who cannot speak Irish, though they know it in part. The contiguity to Scotland occasions the language to partake more of the Scotch Erse than of the Southern Irish.

Near Cushendall is a small well, called Tobordmony, or Sunday Well, which has its origin from being visited on that day for the cure of complaints, chiefly of children. A little pebble is thrown into the well, and a pin stuck in a bit of cloth left beside it – thousands of these shreds may be seen there; but the practice is in part given over, and the well is now assisting the race to turn a corn-mill. There are some prejudices as to disturbing old thorn trees. The curate has heard a man swear most solemnly, that he has seen some hundreds of the “wee folk” dancing round those trees, and told him he should suffer for meddling with them, and it is indisputable that he suffered next winter in this house and family, by destruction and fright from a violent storm. But as the whole island, and also Liverpool and other foreign parts, suffered likewise on the same day and night, he endeavoured to reason with the good man, that they all could not have suffered on this account. There is also amongst them a superstitious opinion as to cows’ milk blinked, so that it will not produce butter for several days’ churnings until some old woman with a charm does it away. Another relates to cows being elf-shot; and the inhabitants will show you the spot where you may feel a hole in the flesh, but not in the skin, where the cow has been struck; she gives no milk till relieved. Whatever is the cause, there is something curious as to the fact.

There are very few families of Protestants and Catholics which are not intermarried with each other, of consequence, little or no bigotry prevails, and it must excite very pleasing reflections, that the Catholic clergyman, the Rev. Daniel McDonnell,17 does everything in his power to promote a good understanding among the inhabitants of the Parish. Since the rebellion of 1798, a company of yeomanry attached to the Ballycastle corps, raised by Mr. Dobbs, was composed of both Protestants and Catholics.

Whenever a person dies in a townland, no work is done until the body is interred, which was of little consequence when there was but one of two families resident, and little work to do; now, when they are more numerous, it becomes, at particular seasons rather inconvenient. The people are not all as strict in keeping the holy days as formerly; in general, their observance is a nuisance, as the day is spent in the public house, and little is done the next day. When two or three holy days happen in a week, it is a fine open18 for a week’s idleness. The young people have not so much money as formerly, and spirits are dearer, which makes them less anxious for holy days. In these parishes, scarcely any private spirits are made, either now or at any time, though before the roads were opened the smuggling of tobacco was carried on to a great extent.

The Education and Employment of Children, etc

The inhabitants were and are, in general, inclined to have their children instructed in reading, writing, arithmetic and navigation. The land being cheap till these few years past, very little labour was necessary; industry is now more prevalent; yet young able fellows may still be seen knitting stockings, at the back of a ditch or the gable of a house. The fault lies in a great measure with their parents, who, rather than let them go abroad, will divide their lands among them by which means a few generations have reduced large farms of, perhaps a hundred acres, to a number of small ones, containing four or five acres each, or even less. In Scotland, none but the eldest son is allowed to hold the farm, all the younger children must either learn a trade or go abroad.

The usual charge for tuition has been 2s. 6d. for spelling; 5s for reading; and 7s. 6d. for writing and accounts, per quarter. Except at the extremity of the parish, and next to the parish of Laid, most of the children will attend Mr. Turnly’s school-house. In Laid there are several Schoolmasters, who support themselves by teaching the children and a small subscription has been yearly made to assist those who could not pay. About thirty are now instructed gratis. A branch of the Hibernian Bible Society has been established here. It meets alternately at Glenarm and Cushendall.

State of Religious Establishment, Tythes, etc

There being neither church nor glebe-house in Ardclinis parish, the few occasional duties have been generally attended to by the officiating clergyman of Laid. The Rev. David Dunkin, rector of Ardclinis, does not reside; he receives the tythes as treasurer of the Diocese of Connor. There is neither chapel nor meeting-house in Ardclinis, though the inhabitants are mostly Catholics: the chapel in Laid is but a small building, by no means large enough for the congregation, two-thirds of which cannot get into the house, and are obliged to kneel on the outside; in Ardclinis, the Rev. Mr. McDonnell does duty in the open air.

The church of Laid stands on the old direct centre road from Cushendall to Ballycastle. It was built in the year 1800 by the parish, at their own expense and by subscription; it can contain about 200 people, and is generally well attended. At that time the Board of First Fruits would give no money unless the church had been 20 years in ruin; it may however be hoped they will be able to assist in building on more eligible ground, and allow an appropriation of this small building for the use of a parish school-house.

There are but four acres of glebe in Laid, and that is situated so as to afford no site for a glebe-house. The tytheable articles consist of corn, but the usual custom in the parish of Ardclinis is, to set the tythe for a given sum, which is then applotted upon the parish, and each denomination gives a note or bond for the annual payment. The tythes of Laid have been generally set at incumbency bargains, each townland giving a joint promissory note for their proportion. The tythe is laid on corn only; formerly it was levied on minor articles, as fish caught on the shore by nets, etc; the last bargain was for £180 per annum.

Modes of Agriculture, Crops, etc

Where the land answers, potatoes are set with the plough, opening the drills, dropping the seed, laying the manure over or under, and then covering them. Stocks of cattle consist of young cattle grazed in the mountain, ponies and sheep of the small Highland breed, and sometimes a cross breed; ploughs, harrows and spades are the chief instruments; in hard stony grounds and on the sides of the hill, where the plough cannot work, a kind of spade called a kib is used, very thick and strong, but only one-third of the usual breadth of that instrument. The usual produce of this parish consists of potatoes, barley, potato-oats, a little wheat, beans and peas; these three latter are rather an improvement upon agriculture. The small mutton of the country is reckoned very fine; the quarter seldom exceeds 13lbs. The beef is also small, weighing from 27 to 28 score lbs. per carcase. The general size of horses (or rather ponies) is small, they do not exceed in value £16 each, and some are as low as £5, except the few kept by gentlemen.
 
The May rents are paid at August, by the produce of butter; the November in February, by the sale of pork. Of this last the price varies; it has sold at £4 per cwt and this year it does not promise £1-10s.

The occasional taxes and expenses of families are paid from spinning, which does not exceed 12 hanks to the pound, most generally eight; the wages are from 8d, to 10d per day; men’s wages from 13d to 18d. On particular occasions they get 1s. 8d. a day, and women 1s. 1d. The lands on each side of the roads are extremely good, and set from 30 to 50 shillings an acre. There are eight fairs at Cushendall in the year, viz. February 14th, March 17th, May 14th, June 29th, August 14th, September 29th, November 14th, December 23rd. Cushendall, though a weekly market, cannot support one, the fairs answering at present every purpose.

The chief proprietors of the parish of Ardclinis are Mr. Gibbon of Carnalough; James White, Esq., of Limnalary; Francis Turnly, Esq., of Drumnasole; John Higginson, Esq., of Nappan; Lady Antrim; Lord Mark Kerr, in right of the Antrim family, of Ardclinis; the Rev. Richard Dobbs, Rev. John Dobbs, and Conway Dobbs, Esq. of Glenariff. The principal proprietors of the parish of Laid are Lord Mark Kerr, Alexander McAuley, Esq., James Craig, Esq. Francis Turnly, Esq. Hugh Stewart McAulay Boyd, Esq. Samuel Boyd, Esq. Rev. Richard Dobbs, Nicholas Cromelin, Esq. Edmund McNeile, Esq. and the Rev. John Smyth.

The rents in Laid rate from 20s to 48s and the ground is in general very good. The prices of cows and horses are much the same as at Ardclinis. As to the price of provisions, it varies very much, and these few years past has been high; twenty years ago, one penny for eight and ten eggs was a common price now it only brings four, sometimes less; meal 15s. per cwt or 1s. 8d. per peck of four stone; potatoes 2 ½ d to 5d. per stone; beef has sold this year, November 1816, at 25s. per hundred of 120lb. Not reckoning old leases, rents run from 15s. to £3 the acre, average price 28s. including pasture and arable. Hay seldom less than 2s. 2d. per cwt. Sometimes 6s.owing to bad winters and the number of young cattle grazed in the mountains, which must be fed from the produce of the lowlands. Sheep are very plenty in these mountains.

Trade Manufacturers, Commerce, Etc
 
Kelp is burned along the shore, by making oblong pits of stone, in which the sea rack is packed when dry; it melts like lead, and forms a hard cake. Some of it goes to Coleraine, some to Larne, some is shipped for Liverpool, where perhaps, most of it finds its ultimate destination.

In the parish of Ardclinis there is a corn mill, a flax mill, a tuck mill at Carnlough, and a small corn mill on Mr. Dobb’s farm at Bay Lodge. In the parish Laid, on the rivulet passing through Glen Balligreman, are several small mills for flax and corn.

The river from Glenanne has also two mills on it, one for flax, the other for corn. There are a few small vessels from 14 to 20 tons burden, can come into the Acre river at high water, and about 16 that belong to Cushendun river, as passage boats or to carry coals, etc. A number of small boats around the bay fish for herrings, both by draft nets on the beach, and by drifts which go into the channel in deep water; the fish caught by the latter are far superior in size and quality. From 12 to 16 boats, with 9 hands each, may be seen drawing at the same time along the beach about dusk, besides which, hundreds of men, women, and children called carpers, are ready to catch the fish that break from the net on its drawing on shore.

Natural Curiosities, Remarkable Occurrences, etc
 
After passing over the bridge on the Acre river into Laid, and turning to the right towards the sea, you come to some caves, one of which is occupied by a smith, who keeps a forge in it; another by a resident family; boats are drawn up in the others. They are not large and seem to have been formed by a cemented mixture of clay and small stones run together, the softer parts having mouldered away by the sea and time. There are other curious caves, particularly at Cushendun, with well turned arches of considerable extent. The great curiosity is the mode of their formation, and its probably cause; they have the appearance of well cemented stones and gravel of various kinds and dimensions; at one part is a perpendicular wall, or appearance of the side of a wall, about 200 feet high; when you examine the stones you find them all cracked in many parts and easy to divide in pieces; this has been produced, as some suppose, by fire. In some of these caves wild pigeons are numerous. Some years ago a large whale, nearly sixty feet long, was driven on shore alive, on the Ardclinis side of Red Bay; some of the bones are at Glenarm Castle.

The proprietors of lands in these parishes are gentlemen who have had a liberal education, and are well descended. Mr. McAulay is lineally come from the family of Arden Caple, in Scotland; his father before he died went one circuit as Judge, when he acted as sheriff. His brother, Hugh McAulay Boyd, as before mentioned, was, according to proofs, produced by Laurence Dundas Campbell, the author of Junius; he died in a high official situation in India. All the lands in these parishes are held under the Antrim family. Some of these lands are held under what is called the Hollow Blade Company, so named from a company in London, makers of sword-blades, who obtained the grant; it is not granted in perpetuity to the present proprietors, but they have a lease of some hundred years.

Suggestions for Improvement and Means for meliorating the Condition of the People

Except a more general introduction of weaving, which appears to be increasing, and will do so, if the linen trade advances, any other manufactory would not answer so well. The opening of roads to the principal market towns of Ballymena, Ballymoney, etc., will be of great service; the residence of the proprietors, if possible, would also be a great assistance, as nearly the whole of the pork and butter goes to non-resident landlords. It is calculated that, on an average, these parishes have more meal and potatoes than is sufficient for their own consumption and in this scarce year, 1817, it will not be necessary to import provisions.
 
1. Village now named – i.e. Waterfoot
2. Near Broughshane – probably an addendum which should have been placed at the end of the preceding paragraph.
3. Down Survey – conducted by Sir William Petty in 1655/56
4. 1970 feet – 1676 feet, O.S. spot height
5. Blind coal – non bituminous coal.
6. The father – Alexander McAuley, died 1766.
7. The low glens – the northern glens.
8. The Rev. Richard Stewart Dobbs – i.e. the writer.
9. Snug – neat.
10. Ballymena – should be Ballyeman.
11. 842 feet – 1346 feet, O.S. spot height.
12. 1800 feet – 1817 feet, O.S. trig. Point.
13. New bridge – i.e. Clady Bridge.
14. Old building – Ardclinis old church.
15. South side – should be north side.
16. The old church already noticed – of Laid.
17. The Rev. Daniel McDonnell – Parish Priest of Laid from 1787 till his death in 1828. He was a native of the Glens and one of the best antiquarians of his day.
18. A fine open – a fine opening (excuse).